The insecticides used in fire ant baits have to be slow-acting to allow time for the insecticide to be spread throughout the colony. A fast-acting insecticide would kill the worker ant before she got back to the colony with the bait granule, defeating the objective. Depending on which bait you use, it can take 2 to 6 weeks to obtain maximum control. Baits work great, but you have to be patient! Where they are properly applied two to three times per year, baits will give 80 to 90 percent control.
You can improve control by spot-treating any mounds that survive the bait treatments. This allows time for foraging worker ants to carry the baits into the colonies and improves your chances of killing the queen. Instead, spread the specified amount of bait on the area around the mound so that foraging workers can find it readily.
Ever wonder where the door of a fire ant mound is? Worker ants enter and exit through underground tunnels that radiate away from the mound. The entrances to these tunnels are anywhere from 5 to more than 20 feet away from the mound.
Baits may require 4 to 8 weeks to provide maximum results. Individual mound treatments containing contact insecticides provide much quicker control than bait treatments, and they are the best way to quickly eliminate mounds that are especially troublesome.
There are two basic methods of treating individual fire ant mounds: liquid drenches and dry mound treatments. The liquid drenches provide the quickest control, but they are time-consuming to mix and apply. The dry mound treatments are easy and convenient to use, but these are less effective and usually take a few days to work.
If you do, the workers may take the queen or queens to safety, by moving them either deep into the mound or out one of those underground tunnels to establish satellite mounds.
Use a watering can to mix and apply liquid drenches. Just mix the specified amount of insecticide in water and pour over the mound. The key to success with liquid drenches is to use enough liquid to thoroughly soak the mound.
Depending on the size of the mound, this ranges from 1 to 2 gallons of mixed drench. Begin by applying about one-fourth of the total volume to a to inch band around the outside of the mound. This prevents the queen from escaping through those underground foraging tunnels and improves control of workers. Then apply the rest of the drench directly to the mound. Failure to use enough drench to thoroughly soak the mound is the main reason for unsuccessful mound-drenching efforts. Dry mound treatments may not work as fast as drenches, but they sure are convenient, and they provide a quick, easy way to treat that mound you spotted while mowing the lawn.
Sprinkle the specified amount of powder over and around the mound, and be patient. It can take a few days for a dry mound treatment to work.
Dry mound treatments containing acephate as the active ingredient are the most effective, but acephate stinks, and the odor can linger in the treated area for weeks. For this reason, many people prefer to use dry mound treatments that contain active ingredients like deltamethrin or cyfluthrin.
Drench the mound and an area approximately 10 to 12 inches around the perimeter of the mound. Do not disturb mounds before or after drenching. Add to Wish List. Earn rewards points on your purchase! Learn More. Kills ants, fire ants, cockroaches, fleas and other insects Fast-acting granules kill insects in 24 hours Keep insects out — use as band treatment around house foundations and on lawns, or as a spot treatment on ant hills Convenient, resealable shaker bag — no spreader required For outdoor use only.
Cannot Ship to: PR. Skip to the end of the images gallery. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery. Best Used For. Do this by following the ant trails. If you can see the ants carrying food, they will be going back to the nest, so those will be the ones to follow.
Outdoor nests can be treated with a liquid insecticide. To treat the nest with an insecticide spray, you need a product with a sturdy spray wand that allows you to inject the insecticide into the nest — PestXpert Outdoor Perimeter with its 1m spray wand is ideal.
Powders can be useful if the nest is located inside — in the roof or wall void. Blow powder into the nest, ideally from a couple of different angles. Certainly in areas where electrical issues may be a concern, powders are the product of choice. Spraying around the perimeter of the house 1m up the wall and 1m out and around doors, windows and other entry points can help keep ants out. Some of these treatments may have a short term repellent effect, but their main mode of action is to kill ants that walk across the treated surface.
If there are large numbers of ants or the treated surface is exposed to sun and rain, then the treatment may not last long. This is why sprays should be used in conjunction with baits to kill the nest. Ants build their nests under the pavers of paths and driveways…. Applying a long lasting insecticide to the cracks and crevices will kill any ants present and prevent the ants returning for several months.
Although this treatment will kill ants on contact, it does not normally kill the nest and often the ants may move elsewhere. The treatment acts more like a repellent, keeping the ants out of the paved area. The repellent effect wears off over time and so re-treatment will be necessary every months to keep the area clear of ants.
Granular baits such as PestXpert Nest Kill ant bait should be the first course of action, especially for species such as the Green-headed ant, as it actually kills the nest.
However, the use of ant granules or ant sand sprinkled over the infested lawn can also have an impact in reducing ant numbers as they contact the treatment. However, excluding all ants completely from a lawn is impossible, as sooner or later they will move in from neighbouring areas. Insecticide granules are a contact insecticide, killing insects when they come into contact with the granules — they are designed to exclude insects from a particular area, they are unlikely to kill the nest.
Whilst dealing with a nest inside the home is typically a one-off event and you normally get long lasting results, dealing with ants outside the home can be an ongoing battle.
Even if you get good levels of control, it is only a matter of time before new ants can move in from next door something you can blame the neighbours for! As such lasting ant control often requires regular treatments throughout the year…. For more details on how to get rid of ants , check out our main ant information page.
Tips to control an ant infestation. November 13, Here are the most common problem ants found around homes and how to identify them Indoor ants Black House ant Glossy black ant Nest location: Nest inside and outside. Particularly like wall voids and roof cavities under insulation Behaviour: Can develop long trails Food preference: Sugar Recommended control products: Sugar based ant bait for nest treatment if nest cannot be located, powder treatment if nest can be located. White footed house ant Dull black ant Nest location: Nest inside and outside.
Fire ant control products fall into two main categories: contact killers and baits. Both types are effective, but they work in very different ways.
With either type of fire ant control, following product instructions is critical. Bait products, for example, should not be irrigated after application; you'll diminish their effectiveness. But granular contact killers should be watered after application, following label instructions closely for the amount of water to use.
Watering in releases the active ingredients so they can reach their target. By the time mounds appear, fire ants have been lurking and working underground for months. Successful treatments tackle mounds and unseen tunnels and colonies. Baits and contact killers both provide effective treatment for the problem at hand.
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